Besides a cool-artsy eye on fashion, the one thing that we’ve come to expect from Ohne Titel is cool, urban knits. Having explored the roomy dimensions of a spacesuit for fall, Alexa Adams and Flora Gill grounded the new collection with woven ladylike proportions. The opening look—a sleek red and pale-yellow jacquard jacket and pencil skirt—set the tone with confidence, and even a pair of cobalt-blue and black sweatpants was spun with tailored restraint.
Adams and Gill looked to color theory to help reconfigure their palette this season, and while the pistachio-tinged looks didn’t quite stand up on their own, those muted hues made for a nice foil to what are becoming signature brights. It was a season of firsts in other respects, starting with the introduction of print and ending with a series of eveningwear. Middle Eastern architecture and tile-work inspired the illustration that ran over sweeping silk gazar. And where traditional form-fitting looks marked the mood for day, the duo flirted with volume in unexpected places after dark.
Backstage Gill talked of a lighthearted and playful approach to evening dresses, like the billowing train looped on a sheath for example, or the hourglass paneling on a bias-cut dress. It was an interesting proposition in theory that didn’t always work so well in practice, and many of the pieces did not skim the body in the way that they should. Nevertheless it was exciting to see Ohne Titel make the shift to a more glamorous hour, even if they might have taken slower and more deliberate steps into the night.