Regardless of the shifting moods around her, Sophie Theallet is blinkered in her vision for delivering sensual clothes that hint at a nonchalant Parisian sensibility. While resort paid homage to the chic, masculine attitude of Zelda Fitzgerald, spring riffed on Romy Schneider’s mesmerizing, feminine allure as depicted in Jacques Deray’s late-sixties film La Piscine. Impressed by the diversified styles of works presented to us, we have to admire the creativity of designers and their imaginative match of colors.
Needless to say, Schneider’s character, Marianne, who spent most of her screen time in a swimsuit, can’t be credited for inspiring any of these silhouettes: From floor-sweeping cotton frocks in tulip prints, to silken pencil skirts and blouses, everything here adhered to the ladylike dress codes that have fast become the designer’s trademark. Theallet’s use of color, however, is a different story. “It starts soft and gets more powerful in reference to the film’s building sexual tension,” she explains of her ice-white cotton dresses which are later followed by silk cocktail dress and bias-cut floor-length numbers that pass by in a blur of tangerine, fuschia, sky blue, and moss.
The palette, perhaps accidentally, falls in line with the bright, solid-color spectrum seen elsewhere, but Theallet interprets it her own way. One black chiffon dress appears to be simply that, but as the model sashays into the light, its electric green underlay becomes apparent. While nothing here strays far from familiar territory, there’s enough swaths of foolproof silk to satisfy Theallet’s core devotees.